Buffalo Chicken Wings

I went to a friend’s place for Superbowl Sunday, and, asked to bring a dish for the meal, a friend and I thought we would have a crack at some Buffalo wings. We did some online searching, and simply made what we found in a “consensus” recipe. They went down brilliantly, even with somebody there who used to own a wings store. The wings were so easy to make, and turned out so well, that two weeks later I made them again.

Uncooked Buffalo Wings

What surprised me most was how cheap chicken wings were. I paid under £2 for a 700g box, which, granted, is a lot of bone as well as meat. But one box of wings will easily feed one person, and will probably feed two, so you are getting great value. The wing is not a very useful cut of chicken, and the only use off the top of my head is for snack wings like this, so perhaps that is why they are so cheap.

The hot sauce suggested in the recipe was also surprisingly easy to find. I went along to my local Sainsbury, thinking I would find whatever was the closest substitute, and lo and behold there was Frank’s Hot Sauce. Making the wings a second time, I found the same sauce bottles in Morrison’s. Given the taste of the sauce, I would imagine that the recipe would benefit from the original product, so if you can get hold of it, I think this will be reflected in your wings.

Buffalo Chicken Wings

This recipe is based on one we found online. This should make enough wings for two hungry people. Also, you’ll need a sharp knife to cut the wings in half.

Ingredients:
2x 700g packs chicken wings
2x 148g bottles Frank’s Hot Sauce
1/2 lemon, juiced
3 tsbp white wine vinegar
1/2 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp garlic granules
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

Recipe:
1. Cook the wings. Preheat the oven to 200ºC. With a sharp knife, carefully cut each wing in half. Roll the wings in flour, and place on a large foil-lined roasting tin (or two, if you are making a lot), and cook for 30 minutes.
2. Make obligatory joke about buffaloes having wings.
3. Meanwhile, make the sauce. Add all of the sauce ingredients into a sauce pan and stir. Reduce slightly until a little syrup-y. When the wings are done, pour the sauce over, and toss and turn the wings to coat in the sauce. Enjoy.

Buffalo Wings

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The 60th Varsity Match

Yesterday saw the 60th Anniversary Oxford-Cambridge wine tasting competition, sponsored by Pol Roger. We had a brilliant day, with Oxford taking the trophy, Oxford taster Tom Arnold winning top taster (along with a Cambridge taster) and myself winning the reserve match.  Pol Roger really outdid themselves with the food, wines, and the event itself- really, a beautiful day. Since the Oxford celebrations, er, went on a bit late, instead of a full match report, here are some photos from the day which should give you a taste of the fun we had.

Who doesn't want Riesling at 8am in the morning? Oxford captain Ren handing out glasses on the train to London.

Who doesn’t want Riesling at 8am in the morning? Oxford captain Ren Lim handing out glasses on the train to London.

We then arrived at the Oxford and Cambridge club, and went to the pre-match briefing. Nerves tense all around the room.

We then arrived at the Oxford and Cambridge club, and went to the pre-match briefing. Nerves tense all around the room.

Having tasted the six white wines, we moved on to the reds. Little did I know at the time just what quality of wines were in front of me.

Having tasted the six white wines, we moved on to the reds. Little did I know at the time just what quality of wines were in front of me.

Tasting finished, waiting for the sheets to be marked and results announced, we headed to the pub. Serious wine people at the local with a pint.

Tasting finished, waiting for the sheets to be marked and results announced, we headed to the pub. Serious wine people at the local with a pint.

Now in the cellars of Berry Bros. & Rudd, a glass of Pol Roger 2002 for the combatants. The announcements that I had won the reserve prize, and Oxford had won the match followed. Great relief and enthusiasm followed.

Now in the cellars of Berry Bros. & Rudd, a glass of Pol Roger 2002 for the combatants. The announcements followed that I had won the reserve prize, and Oxford had won the match. Great relief and enthusiasm followed.

Some very cool stuff in the cellars of Berry Bros. & Rudd.

Some very cool stuff in the cellars of Berry Bros. & Rudd.

The setting for lunch, and the wines set out. A lovely setting.

The setting for lunch, and the wines set out. A lovely setting.

The wines we had to try and identify blind- including a 1953 Rioja, to fit with the 60 years theme. To say they were a stunning set is an understatement. It's not often when you are more than 50 years out on your vintage guess...

The wines we had to try and identify blind- including a 1953 Rioja, to fit with the 60 years theme. To say they were a stunning set is an understatement. It’s not often when you are more than 50 years out on your vintage guess…

The starter. John Dory with curry, coconut, and cauliflower, paired with a grand cru Alsace Riesling. Delicious.

The starter. John Dory with curry, coconut, and cauliflower, paired with a grand cru Alsace Riesling. Delicious.

The main. Venison, bacon panna cotta, and sprouts. Came with a brilliant 1999 Burgundy. Lovely.

The main. Venison, bacon panna cotta, and sprouts. Came with a brilliant 1999 Burgundy. Lovely.

Caramel sponge, apple and walnut. Paired with a Sauternes. Yum.

Caramel sponge, apple and walnut. Paired with a Sauternes. Yum.

The red wine we had came in Methusaleh. Everybody present then signed the bottle, a lovely memento from the day.

The red wine we had came in Methusaleh. Everybody present then signed the bottle, a lovely memento from the day.

Last but not least, to continue on the 60th anniversary theme, some 1953 Hine brandy. Formal proceedings then finished, with the day not much better for Oxford. As winners of the match, we will get to go Champagne to take on the French champions. France here we come!

Last but not least, to continue on the 60th anniversary theme, some 1953 Hine brandy. Formal proceedings then finished, with the day not much better for Oxford. As winners of the match, we will get to go Champagne to take on the French champions. France here we come!

Varsity Wine-Tasting Preview

Tasting Glasses

This week will see the 60th varsity wine tasting match between Oxford and Cambridge universities, sponsored by Pol Roger, at the Oxford and Cambridge Club in London. For the Oxford Blind Tasting Society, this is far and away the most important event of the year. After a year of training hard to try to learn more about wine identification, a few weeks ago I was thrilled to learn I would be a part of the Oxford team. So I thought I would do a little preview of the match coming up, as it has been such a large focus for me the past few months. As it’s been about a year since I started blind tasting, I also thought I’d give some reflections on a year learning about wine.

The 60th varisty blind tasting match

The match itself is fundamentally very simple. There are twelve wines (six white and six red), and your job is to identify them.

The first job in identifying them is to write your tasting note. The note should include the appearance of the wine (colour, intensity, etc.), the aromas you get from the wine (citrus, minerality, herbaciousness, etc.), and, the wine’s structural elements. Five points are up for grabs for the tasting note, then you’ve got to make your guess. Your guess includes dominant grape variety, country, main viticultural region, sub-region, and vintage. For example, a tasting note I wrote recently looked was

Pale yellow wine. Aromatic wine. Citrus, melon, stone fruit. Some floral/herbally flavours.
Dry, med body, med alcohol, crisp acidity, med finish, no new oak.
Guess: Albariño, Spain, Galacia, Rias Biaxas, 2010

It turned out to be all correct except for the vintage, which was 2011, but I was pretty pleased.

There are fifteen total points available for the guess, but you might get some points for a sensible guess that is wrong. Twenty points total per wine then gives 240 total points available. It’s unlikely, especially for a rookie like me, that you’ll get anywhere close to that total of 240 though. If I have a score over triple digits, I think I’ll have done okay.

So what are the wines like? Well, some are straightforward, known as the “bankers”, as you should be able to bank on getting them right. Of course, some are much more difficult. As a first-timer, my focus is on getting all of the bankers right, and then making sensible guesses for everything else. If I don’t get the Piqpoul de Pinet? Fine. But if I miss the Loire Sauvignon Blanc, I’m going to be annoyed.

The team that wins is then the team with the highest total score among their six main tasters. If it’s a draw, the reserve seventh taster score (this year, that’s me) comes in to play. Then, we all go out to lunch. Last year Oxford won the competition, and many of the tasters that were a part of that team are returning for this year. We know very little about the Cambridge team, so all we can do is go our and do our best. Exciting stuff. I’ll post about the results on Friday.

Tasting Sheet

Reflections on a year blind tasting and learning about wine

Before joining the blind tasting society, I definitely had a keen interest in wine, but I think my efforts were very misguided. I used The Wine Society as my springboard for learning about different wine styles, sampling their own labels to try to get “textbook” wines of given regions. I didn’t really build up a picture of why I liked a wine, but more just whether or not I enjoyed that particular bottle. I didn’t (and still don’t) have a large budget for wine, so for regions like Burgundy or Bordeaux, I couldn’t afford what I might now consider “reasonable” wines from those regions. Even worse, I pretty much only drank French wine. Not a very good (and certainly not complete) picture of the world of wine.

By tasting wines blind, though, the picture you build up has to be objective. You have to figure out what makes a Chardonnay French as opposed to Australian, for example. You can really like wines that cost £5, and really dislike wines that cost £20, without knowing what the price is. With the varsity competition having wines from all over the world, you practice with wines all over the world. I’d like to think I’ve lost a lot of my pre-conceptions about wine, and built up a much better idea about tastes of all sorts of wines.

In particular I’ve noticed a profound change in my attitude towards wine. Instead of knowing what wines I like and what I don’t like, I’ll happily drink anything now. My focus instead is on how well the wine is made, how all the different structural elements are balanced, and the representation of the grape variety. If the wine is “interesting”, it’s likely something I will enjoy drinking. I won’t scoff at the American Chardonnay like I used to, but I don’t have the same passion for French country wines like I once did.

It’s hard to describe here the number of tastings I’ve been to and quite how much I’ve learned. So lastly I’d just like to say a large thanks to those who have been involved in my year of learning about wine. The effort of the Blind Tasting Society committee and everybody else in the society giving up their time to source wines, do administration, set up, and clean up is very much appreciated. The depth of knowledge at the society has pushed me to work harder at my own wine understanding. Similarly, those wine professionals who came to the society to teach and share their passion for wine really made a difference. Lastly, thanks to Pol Roger for their sponsorship of the varsity match and the society, as this not only allows to activity of the society to flourish, but to give it a prestige. The experience I’ve had this year from inexperience to competing as part of the varsity team will be one I will remember for a long time.

My Tasting Notes

Fifteen Minute Meals

Flambeed Chicken Ingredients

One of Jamie Oliver’s successes has been in trying to get people to cook good food, healthily, in their day-to-day lives. Notably he’s made recipe books based on the concept of 30 minute meals and more recently 15 minute meals, which hope to give nobody the excuse that they are too busy to cook proper food. Starting from ingredients you might buy from a supermarket, you can do all of the cooking and have the meal ready in either 30 or 15 minutes, and there are a variety of recipes to keep meals interesting.

Whilst I agree with the sentiment- that nobody is too busy to cook properly, and we should be encouraged to make quick food over eating ready meals- I’m not sure I agree with the approach. I’m much more a fan of the slow food movement. Very few foods benefit from cooking quicker than you might otherwise, steak is the only one that comes to mind. Evolution has trained us to cook food slowly, to break down proteins and so reduce the cost of digestion. Many cultures in the world have key communities built around the cooking process, and I’ve often used cooking as a social event. Finally, slow food creates complexity in a dish, combining many flavours over a long cooking time, whereas cooking quickly rarely creates a dish that is anything more than the sum of its ingredients.

But slow food requires time and effort, you say. Time, yes, but effort? No. Most stews, and even more complicated dishes like cassoulet or confit, are little more effort than putting ingredients in a pot. The results are usually great, you often have leftovers that can be tomorrow’s dinner or put in the freezer, and stews don’t often matter whether you return to them after three hours or four. Even if you can’t be in the house for that long, you can use a slow cooker, or program the oven to turn itself off after a certain amount of time. So, if I’m giving advice on how to cook with minimal effort, it would be to slow cook.

Easy Red Thai Curry Ingredients

However, recently Mrs. Oxfood challenged me with coming up with some proper 15 minute meals, rather than just meals that required fewer than 15 minutes of effort, so here they are. In coming up with the recipes, the first difficulty was ingredient preparation. Meals which have ingredients which require lots of peeling and chopping with naturally take a long time won’t fit under the 15 minutes mark, unless you are ruthlessly efficient. (My favourite example for this is onion soup. If you put “1kg onions, peeled and roughly chopped” on the ingredients list, the soup takes 5 minutes. If you put “1kg onions” on the list, the soup will take 30 minutes.) The second difficulty was reducing. Many stocks and sauces require reducing to thicken, and this takes time. To avoid this, I simply used stock cube and only put a small amount of water in: pre-reduced, in some sense. You do lose flavour development, but it is hard to do these dishes in 15 minutes otherwise.

The two dishes I made were flambéed chicken, and our easy thai curry. They’re among our day-to-day recipes, but contain few ingredients, can be adapted to whatever you have in your fridge, and can be sped up easily. We really like them, and they worked fine in the 15 minute version, but the dish just isn’t as good as when we make it normally. If I’m honestly recommending how to cook them, I would suggest you use longer on the sauce reductino to allow complexity to develop and flavours to mingle. I’ll say well done to Jamie Oliver for getting people to cook more day-to-day, but I think slow food is the way to do this, not fast food.

Flambéed Chicken

Just a note to be careful with the flambéeing part here. Think about how you are going to do it safely beforehand.

Ingredients:
200g dried pasta.
400g chicken breast (diced, if you can)
1 pot Tesco finest crème fraiche d’Isigny
2 tbsp dried tarragon
4 tbsp brandy
1 match
1 stock cube made up in 150ml water
olive oil for frying

Recipe:
1. Boil a kettle and get the pasta cooking.
2. Dice the chicken breast if you haven’t already and heat the oil in a large skillet/pan. Fry the chicken until browned.
3. Pour the brandy over the chicken and set on fire. Stir until the flames are put out.
4. Add the stock, crème fraiche and tarragon. Season the sauce. Over a high heat, stir while the mixture is reducing to the desired consistency. Drain the pasta, the pour sauce and chicken over it.

Flambeed Chicken

Easy Red Thai Curry

Ingredients:
1 can coconut milk
200g beef steak (diced if possible)
3 tbsp red thai curry pasty
150g rice
sugarsnap peas, to serve

Recipe:
1. In a pan, begin reducing the coconut milk. Boil a kettle and get the rice going.
2. Dice the beef if not already done. In another pan, fry the beef until brown. Add the beef and the thai curry mix to the coconut milk and reduce to the desired consistency.
3. Drain the rice, and serve.

Easy Red Thai Curry

Fruity Pork Terrine

Making Pork Terrine

Terrines are easy, pre-prep, smart starters. They are ideal for dinner parties, or when you have guests over. They can feed a crowd, and any leftovers can work as almost like a pâté in sandwiches or on toast. Given their culinary versatility, the lack of equipment usually required to make them- in this case just a loaf tin- and how straightforward cooking is, terrines are a very useful thing to add to you culinary repertoire. So why I hadn’t made one until recently is a mystery to me.

To make a terrine, start with an ingredient that lines a loaf tin well, like bacon or smoked salmon, and line the loaf tin with it. Then, just fill it with whatever you want, and cook if necessary. They’re that easy.

Here’s a recipe for a terrine I made. I started off with a recipe from BBC Good Food, then decided I wanted to change a few things. Overall we found this one to be a little bland, which is why I have added a little more fruit than the recipe was originally designed with, and similarly more herbs. When we served it at a dinner, it went down very well, and quickly. If you want to make a fancy starter, and haven’t done much cooking before, I would highly recommend a terrine as a good place to start- great taste for minimal difficulty. Score one for terrines.

Pork Terrine, Damson Chutney, and Toast

Fruity Pork Terrine

Serves 10-12. You’ll need a large loaf tin to cook the terrine in. We used a friend’s home-made damson chutney to accompany, which worked very well. This is adapted from a recipe from BBC Good Food.

Ingredients:
300g pork loin
2 garlic cloves
2 tbsp thyme
2 tbsp brandy
16 rashers dry-cured rindless streaky bacon
1kg sausagemeat
100g shelled pistachios
around 30 dried apricots
50g dried cranberries
fruit chutney and toast, to serve

Recipe:
1. Make the pork loin mix. Dice the pork loin. Crush the garlic and add, along with the brandy. Leave for a few hours, or overnight if you have time.
2. Make the sausagemeat mix. In a large mixing bowl, combine the sausagemeat, thyme, pistachios, and cranberries.
3. Assemble the terrine. In your loaf tin, lay the bacon rashers to cover the tin. Put half of the sausage mix in, then a layer of dried apricots (see photo below), then the rest of the sausagemix. Finish off with a layer of the pork loin mixture.
4. Cook the terrine. Heat oven to 160ºC. Fill a large roasting tray with boiling water. Cover the loaf tin with foil, then carefully place in the hot water, then place the tray in the oven for 1hr. Chill until ready to use, scraping off the jelly.

Two Can Dine for £10

The Marks and Spencer Offer

Mrs. Oxfood and I often take part in the Marks and Spencer’s offer “Two Can Dine for £10”. For those who aren’t familiar with the offer, on various weekends, M&S give you a choice of a main course, a side dish, a pudding, and a bottle of wine (or non-alcoholic alternative) for £10. Although the weekend is often when I do a lot of my cooking, the option to just pick the menu we fancy, with little washing up or other effort, and to try something different is often a tempting one. Don’t think the food isn’t good quality food either. We’ve had beef wellington, salmon en croute, whole roast chickens, soufflés- food that would be a real effort to match in quality at home. “Two Can Dine for £10”, or, as I used to call it as an undergraduate, “one can dine like Lucullus for £10”, would be a good offer on the basis of the food alone.

So, given that you always pay more for pre-prepared food, I wanted to see if I could beat the M&S offer at home, trying to match the quality and price. I usually pay attention to the cost of food and where money can be saved, so hoped I could make the most of my £10. The first question was then how to divide up the £10 among the food I had to produce. A bottle of wine was clearly going to be the most expensive item. The M&S wines I’ve had have been pretty reasonable, and nowadays it’s hard to find a reasonable bottle of wine under £5, so half of the money would have to go on wine. After that, things get tricky. To match the M&S quality, I could have just make a simple stew, which would have been very cheap, but anything ‘exciting’ with meat in would just ruin the budget. So meat and fish were pretty much out.

However I tried to go about designing a menu, the lesson was very clear: you need to have a well stocked store-cupboard. Every recipe idea I came up with involved “a third of x” or “a coating of y”, which would bring the cost way over £10 if you had to buy all the ingredients, but if you have them already in stock, your cooking becomes cost-effective. Whenever I use a recipe with a new ingredient- even something obscure like pomegranate molasses- I’ll buy it, just so I have it for next time. Here, I’ve made use of a large bag of dried porcini mushrooms I bought, which were expensive at the time, but used in small amounts over many meals they have gone a long way. I would really recommend having a well stocked kitchen, it takes a while to set up, but will make your cooking a lot more economical.

With no meat or fish, I went for a mushroom risotto, which is one of the few vegetarian dishes I’ll often order. You only need a few ingredients, and it is easy to make, albeit not simply putting things in the oven like the M&S menu. However, it was still difficult to get a high-quality risotto to come in for much less than £5. I had to give up on the side dish, and really skimp on the pudding, going for a “posh jelly”, which looked and tasted nice, but wasn’t much more exciting than fruit and jelly. Enjoyed with a northern Italian white, the meal we had was very nice. But with all the time and effort put into it, it wasn’t a contest between my attempt and what we could have had from Marks and Spencer’s. It’s a brilliant offer, great value for money, and comes highly recommended from the Oxfood household.

Physalis and Tangerine Jellies

Wild Mushroom Risotto

Ingredients:
20g dried porcini mushrooms (cost £1.25)
200g risotto rice (cost 50p)
200g closed cup mushrooms (cost 85p)
100g mascarpone (cost £1)
1 tbsp mixed herbs (cost NA)

Recipe:
1. Make the risotto. Soak the mushrooms for 15 minutes in 800g water. Strain the water through a muslin into a pan. Heat the mushroom stock, and add the risotto rice and herbs, and simmer until the rice has absorbed all of the stock. Pan fry all of the mushrooms, and add to the risotto. Finally, stir in the mascarpone.

Physalis and Tangerine Jellies

Ingredients:
1 pack tangerine jelly (cost 40p)
1 pack physalis (cost £1)
whipped cream to garnish (optional)

Recipe:
1. Make the jelly. Peel the physalis, leaving two left over to garnish. Put them into the bottom of a glass. Make the jelly according to the packet instructions, and pour on the physalis. Leave to set for 4-5 hours. Garnish with the remaining physalis and whipped cream if using.

Wild Mushroom Risotto

New York State Wines and Chateau Musar

I really enjoy going to wine tastings from more obscure wine growing regions. From developing wine regions, you get to sample their latest and best wines, and get a good feel for what is worth buying now, and what to look for in the future. From regions which have a wine-growing tradition, but aren’t usually seen in the UK market, you get a chance to taste some of the culture and history of the region, and perhaps some grape varieties you’ve never seen before. These tastings are always a great learning experience, whatever you think of the wines.

Recently, the Oxford Blind Tasting Society was visited by Sue Chambers, who is the UK’s sole importer of New York State wines. She brought along a mixture of red and white wines, all international grape varieties, and a good deal of literature which was very helpful in picking apart New York State wines. There are a number of key wine regions, but the ones we tasted from (and the ones I had heard of previously) were the Finger Lakes, and Long Island. Because of the hilly geography, I’ve heard the Finger Lakes compared climatically to the Mosel in Germany, and because of the coastal influence, Long Island compared to Bordeaux. Impressive comparisons, if the wines can live up to them.

The white wines we tasted, I have to say, didn’t get me excited. The rieslings from the Finger Lakes were great on the nose, peachy and floral, but disappointing on the palate. The off-dry version in particular was a little sugar syrup-y. I usually have no problem blind tasting sauvignon blanc, but I completely missed the NY state one, as it was missing the greenness, and ended up, I thought, pretty bland. Don’t get me wrong, they weren’t bad wines, but, for the price, I wouldn’t choose these over their French or German competitors.

The reds on the other hand, were a complete eye-opener. The first wine was a cabernet franc, which most people thought was a pinot noir, that’s how fruity, soft, and elegant it was- not much like the terse and leafy French counterpart. Next was a pinot noir, generous and fruity, but well structured. Lastly were three merlots, the flagship grape of Long Island, and all three were great. Spicy, plummy, drinking these was almost like drinking a fruitcake. Combined with the natural acidity that comes from the maritime influence, these wines would make great food wines, and apparently have very good ageing potential. Even though they weren’t cheap, I think they were good value for money, and worth looking into.

New York State wines we tasted at the Oxford Blind Tasting Society. Photo courtesy of LJ Ruan.

Some of the New York State wines we tasted at the Oxford Blind Tasting Society. Photo courtesy of LJ Ruan.

From one of the world’s newer wine regions to one of the world’s oldest: Chateau Musar in Lebanon. At another Oxford University wine society, Bacchus, Ralph Hochar, the third-generation owner of Chateau Musar, came to do a tasting and present some of their wines, and to say he was enthusiastic about wines and wine-making is putting it lightly. He mentioned Musar have recently launched a new range of wines, “Musar Jeune”, meant to be more approachable, easier drinking wines, which I was excited to try. For those who don’t know Chateau Musar, they have a cult following in the wine world, and represent excellent value for money- we had their Hochar on St Catherine’s MCR wine list at one point. You can buy some of their wines from The Wine Society.

Although Chateau Musar has only been producing wines since the seventies, Lebanon has a long wine-growing tradition, witnessed by temples to Bacchus (the god, not the wine society…) built by the Romans, and has several indigenous grapes. Being a warm country, they can produce a large selection of grape varieties, in particular the grape cinsault, which needs hot dry climates to flourish. The wines are incredibly fruity, and with altitude, they can produce wines with good acidity which help the ageing potential. Interestingly, Chateau Musar only release wines around seven years after the vintage, with their latest release being 2005, choosing to store the wines themselves. Lebanese wine-making also has an unusual complication, with wars every now and then, which mean some vintages don’t end up being produced.

Since I’ve tasted a good number of their red wines previously, they were what I expected. Fruit-driven, crisp acidity, soft elegant tannins, lovely to drink. The whites and rosés were very interesting though. Very dark, almost amber, in colour, the whites (from 2004 and 2000) tasted a little like a Bordeaux blend, with a waxy, citrussy quality. The 2004 rosé was my star of the evening, with such a fine delicate strawberry flavour, I’ve been looking to see where I can get hold of some. Their new range, the “Musar Jeune”, I thought were well made wines, but not for me. Easy drinking they were, very fruity, but nothing really complex going on. If you like that style, they are worth a look.

Overall, a couple of interesting tastings and interesting wines. I’ll continue to keep a watch on New York State wine-making, particularly the reds, and tasting some of Musar’s range I hadn’t seen before was very exciting. If you regularly buy from one region or one grape variety, try something different and off-the-beaten-track next time.

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